The Thakhek Loop is one of Southeast Asia’s most unforgettable motorbike journeys. It is a 3 to 5 day adventure through the heart of the Central Region of Laos going through the provinces of Khammouane & Bolikhamsai. Starting and ending the trip in the sleepy Mekong riverside town of Thakhek, the loop takes travelers through breathtaking limestone landscapes, remote villages and some of the most spectacular caves in the country, including the legendary Kong Lor Cave.
Fellow travelers like to depart on this Lao adventure mostly by motorbike. But for those who are not familiar of riding a motorcycle, the Thakhek Loop can also be done by car. As for us, an Austrian-Lao couple living in Laos, not too far from Thakhek and having our own pickup-truck, we did the Thakhek Loop by car in summer 2024. We did exactly the same loop as motorcyclists do, so this guide is for you if you are looking for unique insights of the Thakhek Loop by locals living in Laos – valuable information other travel blogs provide.
The Thakhek Loop is a circular motorbike route covering approximately 450 to 500 kilometers through Central Laos, depending on the side trips you choose along the way. Starting in the provincial capital city Thakhek, riders typically starting the loop counterclockwise. Thats means heading east along Route 12 towards the border with Vietnam, making early stops at several caves like Tham Nang Aen, swimming holes, karst limestone formations and rural villages.
From the village of Nakay, the route follows Route 1E north through lush forests, limestone karsts and small villages, offering a true glimpse into rural Lao life. After reaching the impressive Kong Lor Cave, a main highlight where you can take a boat ride through a 7-kilometer underground river, the loop continues westward via Route 8, eventually connecting back with Route 13 south toward Thakhek. Most travelers complete the journey in 3 to 5 days, allowing time for exploration, cave visits and relaxed overnight stays in small guesthouses dotted along the way.
🚐 From Savannakhet to Thakhek:
Regular local buses and minivans leave Savannakhet Bus Terminal several times a day. The trip takes around 2-3 hours by minivan and a bit longer by regular bus because they stop more often.
🚌 From Pakse to Thakhek:
Departure from Pakse Northern Bus Terminal. Busses or Minivans usually leave in the morning and the trip takes round about 6-8 hours. As an Alternative you can also go to Savannakhet first. It is a nice city for a stopover and break down the journey.
🚍 From Vientiane to Thakhek:
VIP / Sleeper Bus leaves from Vientiane Southern Bus Station. There are multiply daily departues and the trip takes about 6-8 hours. You can also take a minivan or local bus during the day, which takes obviously longer.
🌉 From Nakhon Phanom (Thailand) to Thakhek:
Cross the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge No. 3. Nakhon Phanom Bus Terminal offers a direct bus service across the bridge into Laos. Departure times from Nakhon Phanom Bus Station to Thakek Bus Station: 09:30 AM, 11:30 AM, 02:30 PM & 04:30 PM. Make sure to check the Visa Requirements for entering Laos
✈️ Alternatives how to get to Thakhek:
The cheapest option is always to just go directly to the bus station and buy the bus/minivan ticket there. In Laos transportation doesn’t need to be pre-booked and services like 12go asia are not reliable in Laos! Pre-booking is only advisable when there are bigger public holidays, such as Lao New Year (Songkran) mid of april. Bus tickets will cost something like 50.000 LAK to 300.000 LAK, depending where you are departing from. Transportation in Laos in general is very affordable and will not break anyone’s budget. If you really want to book in advance, ask your guesthouse to book a ticket for you. But then the ticket will be slightly more expensive as they probably charge a premium.
Businesses in Thakhek are prepared for travelers doing the famous Thakhek Loop. Therefore you will find enough places where you can rent a motorcycle from. Most of them have a good reputation. Leaving your Passport as a deposit is normal in Laos, so don’t worry about that. The motorbike rental will keep your passport until you return your bike. You can usually also leave your big luggage with the rental company or your guesthouse until you are done with the route.
List of rental companies in Thakhek many travelers use:
I would recommend renting semi-automatic motorbike instead of a full-automatic. Shifting gears without clutch is quite easy and a semi-automatic bike is more flexible on the route. However, if you feel more comfortable you can also rent a fully automatic Honda Click or similar to that.
During peak travel season (October – February) you can consider securing your motorbike a day before you plan to start the Loop. There also used to be a briefing about the loop at La Casa Hostel every evening. A good place to meet other travelers heading out to for the route. I currently can’t confirm if those briefings still happening, but easy to find out on their facebook page ore once you’re in town yourself.
The best time of the year to ride a motorbike on the Thakhek Loop is the dry season, which runs from October until April. But keep in mind that march and april are usually the hottest months of the year with over 40 degrees celsius. We did the loop with the car in June 2024 and it was still absolutely perfect. Even it was technically raining season already, we did not have much run during our trip. The advantage of doing it out of peak season are less travelers, cheaper prices for guesthouses and no problems of renting a motorbike. But it definitely rains more in July and August. Those are typically the rainiest months of the year in Laos. Everything is perfectly green though during that time.
Driving from Savannakhet to Thakhek:
End of June 2024 we completed the with our own car doing the exact same route as fellow travelers on the motorbike. Therefore I would like to share the exact route we did as recommended itinerary for others.
We live not far away from Thakhek, so it was quite easy for us to get to Thakhek from our hometown Savannakhet by pickup-truck. The road conditions from Savannakhet to Thakhek are quite good now. It took us roundabout 2 hours to reach Thakhek via Route 13. As soon as we arrived in Thakhek we looked for a guesthouse for the night before heading out on the Thakhek Loop next day morning. We stayed at ThakhekMai Guesthouse and Restaurant. A new, modern guesthouse with restaurant and free simple breakfast is offered as well. Perfect if you want to start the loop early morning.
On the first day, we started in the morning after our breakfast doing the loop counterclockwise (like most people). So we headed east from Thakhek following Route 12/AH131.
🏞️ Elephant Cave: As a first stop just 10-15 minutes (6 km) outside of Thakhek town, is the Elephant cave. It is popular among locals because their are Buddha Shrines inside the cave. Don’t expect too much because it is a small cave and you will be through in a short time. Still a quick and nice stop with local touch. You will probably need no more than 30 minutes there. Entrance is only 10.000 LAK – very cheap and it’s on the way, but not a big deal either if you skip it.
🏞️ Xieng Liap Cave: As a quick stop about 20 minutes (12 km) outside of Thakhek town, you’ll find Xieng Liap Cave. This cave is much more adventurous than Elephant Cave — you can actually walk through it, especially during the dry season. It’s a natural tunnel carved by the river, and you might need to get your feet a little wet. The cave is wild and not very developed, giving it a real explorer vibe. Plan about 30–45 minutes if you want to walk all the way through. Entrance is around 10,000 LAK – not expensive and worth it if you’re nearby, but it’s best visited when the water level is low.
🏞️ Nang Ende Cave (Tham Nang Ene): One of the more popular caves near Thakhek is Tham Nang Aen Cave, about 25 minutes (18 km) east of town along Route 12. This one is much bigger and more touristy than the earlier stops. Inside, there’s a walkway with colorful lighting that gives the whole cave a surreal tunnel vibe. In the rainy season, you can even take a short boat ride on the underground river. You’ll need about 45 minutes to 1 hour to explore properly. Entrance fee is around 30,000 LAK – a bit more expensive than other caves but still cheap for what you get. It’s a good stop if you like easy access and big cave halls. Locals like to come to Nang Ene Cave for meditation as well. So if you see some people meditating, be respectful and don’t make loud noises.
🏞️ Thafalang: This is a nice little river spot about 15 minutes (10 km) east of Thakhek, just off Route 12. It’s a peaceful place where locals like to picnic, swim, and relax by the river. There’s not much to “do” here, but it’s a beautiful spot if you want a quick break for lunch in nature before hitting the road again. You can chill by the water, have a snack or just enjoy the scenery. No entrance fee, just a small parking fee of around 5.000 LAK. It’s not a must-see, but it’s a relaxing stop if you want to slow down a bit on your first day of the loop. You will see mostly locals enjoying their free time there.
On the second day, we took it easy and made our way to Nakai village. There are actually a few villages called Nakai (Nakai Nuea = Nakai North, Nakai Tai = Nakai South). From Nang Ene Cave to Nakai Village it takes just under an hour. Nakai Village is located in the district of Yommalath (Mueang Yommalath) and there are plenty of acommodation and restaurant options. If you want a short walk, go up to Gnommarat View Point (Pha Katai Viewpoint). There are stairs leading up to the viewpoint, reaching it in about 20 minutes, so nothing too strenous.
In that area you will also find the Nam Theun 2 Visitor Centre as part of the hydropower damn. We skipped it, but there is a museum, which can be visited showing the effect the damn had on the area, its production capacity and the Nakai-Nam Theun Nationalpark.
💦 Song Sa Waterfall is a small but pretty waterfall located just a few minutes off Route 8. It’s not super big, but if you’re passing by, it’s a nice little detour to cool off and stretch your legs. Best to visit during or right after the rainy season when there’s plenty of water flowing. Expect a short walk to reach it from the parking area. Entrance fee is cheap – around 5,000–10,000 LAK. It’s a relaxed, quick stop — not a major highlight of the loop, but a refreshing place if you have some extra time. Cross the bridge right after the Nam Theun 2 Visitor center and then turn right onto a dirt road along the reservoir. It is an unpaved road, but in a good condition. When it is raining, might be muddy. Take swimming clothes as the waterfall has a big rock where you can jump from into the deep water of Song Sa Waterfall.
🇱🇦 Family visit local lao style: On Day 2 of the Thakhek Loop, we did a little detour to visit some of my spouse’s extended family who lives in the area. Their village is on the dirt-road to Kong Lor Cave. So if you are an experienced driver, you can turn left in Nakai Village heading to that dirt road leading you through beautiful landscapes. Just ask locals in Nakai Village where to turn to the dirt-road to Kong Lor Cave, they will know 100%. Once we arrived at the village, we celebrated the lao way. Everybody got together, started to cook delicious local lao food, which is best served with Beerlao of course. In Laos, it is very important to sit down and have beers and a meal together. So if you have the chance to do so, don’t hesitate and do it. Lao people are super friendly and welcoming. Even if there might be a language barrier, I would highly recommend to interact with the locals.
From Nakai Village / Nam Theun Area, just head north following Road 1E towards Lak Sao village near the Lao-Viet border. On the way you will pass the Flooded Forest Viewpoint, which is good for a quick picture stop. Another stop on this road are the Sandstone Buddha Rock Sculptures. Travelers can encounter impressive Sandstone Buddha sculptures carved directly into the cliff faces, offering a serene and culturally rich stop amidst the scenic motorbike journey. As the sculptures are right on the road, be careful when stopping and watch out for bypassing cars and motorbikes (even though there is not much traffic).
If you are unlucky during peak travel season and the rooms of Phosy Thalang are full, there are some other guesthouses in the region. We stayed at Mind House Bungalow. They rates are cheap and just next door is Tony Anlee House Restaurant offering delicious food. You might get better rates just showing up there instead of pre-booking online. Pre-booking is not always a good idea in Laos. I usually just show up at a guesthouse and most of the time, the room-rate is cheaper than online.
After having plenty of Beerlao with our extended family, we slowly made our way to Lak Sao village on Day Nr. 3. We only stopped for few pictures on the way and lunch at Phosy Thalang. Day 3 was an easy going day and only about 1.5 hours drive to Ban Lak Sao. The town itself is a border, where people go to Vietnam (Nam-Phao Border). We decided to take a rest day and found a really beautiful resort: Meesouk Guesthose has concrete bungalows on a small lake with mountain view. Prices depend on the room type, but we only paid about 400.000 LAK for the night for a bungalow. Directly located on a small lake, it is possible to walk or run around, so we did some laps to get some exercise done. Another recommendation for Lak Sao Village is Lakxao Coffee. Owned by lovely locals serving freshly brewed lao coffee and snacks.
Leaving Lak Sao Village via road 8/AH15 after breakfast, it is only 30 minutes (18 km) to the next stop on the Thakhek Loop. Driving through scenic limestone mountain landscapes, two of my personal highlights of the route coming up: Dragon Cave & Cool Pool.
🏞️ Dragon Cave: To be honest this cave is one of my favorites on the route. Coming from Lak Sao village toward Thakhek, Dragon Cave is a peaceful stop right along the road. The cave is named after a dragon-shaped rock formation inside and feels much more local and less touristy than other caves like Tham Nang Aen. It’s a nice visit and there is also an amazing viewpoint on top of the cave, which can be reached by climbing up some ladders. Entrance fee is 50,000 LAK, which is a bit pricier than others, but worth the stop! A perfect place to stretch your legs and enjoy some quiet nature before continuing.
🏞️ Cool Pool / Spring: After done with exploring the Dragon Cave, just another 30 minutes on the AH15 road is another of my personal highlights. We spent at least 2 hours at the Cool Pool. It is a cold spring of freshwater coming out of the mountain. Go towards Phontan Village, then turn right at the Petrolao Gas Station towards Na Pavan Village. There should be a sign, but easy to miss it. The location on Google Maps is correct, so you can just follow. The place is awesome to swim, water is very clear. I also see others leaving bad Google Reviews because there was garbage around. Well, there was some garbage around when we arrived as well. This is a problem in Laos and many other countries. So what did we do? Us and the local shop owner started to clean up almost all the garbage for one hour. And I saw a group of Israelis leaving their garbage there, which is a shame! Obviously not only locals leave garbage, westerners do so too. So please help to keep places clean instead of complaining – thanks!
Entrance fee is 50.000 LAK (2.30 USD). Everyone complaining about the “expensive price” should better stay home! It is ridiculously cheap when thinking about the countries where most of the tourists in Laos come from. Think about tourist attractions in Thailand, where tourists pay up to 10-15 times more than locals – there it gets steep, but 2-3 USD for entrance is not steep. Cheap Charlies: Stay home!
Leaving the Cool Pool behind, time to hit the road again. If you continue for another hour via route 8/AH15 you will reach Na Hin village. This village is a good stop before going to the famous Kong Lor Cave. Note, that there were some construction works on the route and sometimes they closed down the road for some hours. It is a mountainous road with lots of curves. Ask locals how the situation is and if construction work has been finished.
Before going to Kong Lor cave, we based ourselves at a guesthouse in Na Hin. Took a nice and clean private room at Sanhak Guesthouse and Restaurant for 250.000 LAK, left our luggage there and headed out for the Kong Lor Cave.
🏞️ Kong Lor Cave: The drive from Na Hin village to the cave takes around an hour. Road conditions are very good and the scenery is dramatic! A lovely ride through local villages to reach the popular cave.
Kong Lor Cave itself is the biggest highlight of the Thakhek Loop and one of the most impressive natural wonders in Laos. It’s a massive 7-kilometer-long river cave that you explore by boat, riding through complete darkness with only your headlamp lighting the way. The cave is surrounded by beautiful karst mountains and small villages, giving it a real hidden-world feeling. Plan to spend about 2–3 hours here for the boat trip and exploring the area. At the entrance you have to pay 200.000 LAK per person (9 USD), but this includes entrance fee and the boat ride as well. Some people paying extra and taking their motorbike on a boat into the cave to be able to continue the loop on the other side of the cave. We did not see anyone doing it and I am not sure if it is something I would recommend. Especially because the road on the other side of the cave is a rough dirt road and you really need to be an experienced rider! I would say, base yourself in Na Hin village or take a guesthouse near the cave, then drive back to Thakhek with a stop at the Rock Viewpoint.
Done with the Kong Lor Cave, it is time for the road again. There is another awesome, adventureous stop on the way before driving back to Thakhek. The Rock Viewpoint is only 11 km from Na Hin Village. There could still be road constructions, so ask your guesthouse in Na Hin how far they are with contruction work now. Other than that it is easy to reach The Rock Viewpoint.
🏞️ The Rock Viewpoint: A beautiful stop for some picture or some zip lining offering incredible views over the limestone mountains and jungle. We did the 90-minutes zip line adventure and I can highly recommend it to anyone. There are several round-courses available. The guides are great and also give you safety instructions. It’s a fun break from riding and a great spot for photos or a quick coffee with a view, even if you don’t do the zip lining there. Current prices can be checked on their website.
After the Rock Viewpoint it is time to drive back to Thakhek. Follow Road 13/AH15 until Vieng Kham Village. Then turn left there to Route 13. The road back to Thakhek is one of the best in Laos. But there is a lot of traffic with big trucks. This part is probably the most boring part, even the roads are good. Nothing much to see there on the way back to Thakhek. Drive safe and watch out for the traffic.
Costs are very individual, but let me give you some overview about what you can approximately expect to spend in 5-6 days on the Thakhek Loop. Laos is very cheap, so you will have no problems at all of finding cheap and clean accommodation.
Let’s say if you plan 15-20 USD per person / day, you should be totally fine without needing to skip anything. If you do zip-lining at the Rock Viewpoint, this will cost around 35 USD per person, so that will be a costly highlight. But all other entrances, food and accommodation is super cheap.
Credit Card or Debit Card payments are not common at guesthouses on the Loop. So either you book advance during peak season or pay cash in LAK. I highly recommend using WISE for withdrawing money from BCEL Bank in Laos.
Frequently asked question in several Laos travel related Facebook groups are, if the Thakhek Loop can be done by car. The simple answer to that is: Yes. Some people can not ride a motorcycle or do not have experience of riding in Southeast Asia. Especially in Laos road conditions are not the best, but on the Loop roads are quite good for Lao standards. So if you want to do the Thakhek Loop (which I highly recommend), but want to do it by car instead of motorbike, you basically have 2 options:
The Thakhek Loop is a 450 – 500 km circular adventure through central Laos, typically completed in 3 to 5 days by motorbike or car. Starting and ending in Thakhek, the route winds through limestone landscapes, rural villages, and major natural attractions like Kong Lor Cave, Song Sa Waterfall, and the Cool Pool. Travelers usually ride counterclockwise along Route 12, Route 1E, and Route 8, exploring caves (Elephant Cave, Xieng Liap, Nang Aen), scenic viewpoints and local villages.
You can reach Thakhek easily by bus or minivan from Savannakhet, Pakse, Vientiane, or Nakhon Phanom (Thailand). Motorbike rentals are widely available in Thakhek and the best travel period is during the dry season (October to April), though the loop is also doable during the early rainy season. Accommodation and food are affordable, with daily costs around 15–20 USD per person.
The article shares a 6-day detailed itinerary, including overnight stays at Nakai, Lak Sao, Na Hin Village and visits to attractions like Dragon Cave and zip-lining at the Rock Viewpoint. If you have less than 5-6 days, no problem. You can still see most of the highlights, just have to start early in the morning and start driving. We are slow travelers and took time to complete the Loop. This is just our example itinerary how we did it. The Loop can be done clockwise or counterclockwise. If you want to extend to even more days, you can go climbing at the Green Climbers Home – world class climbing spot, where you will meet many other travelers and climbing enthusiasts as well.
